Croatia | holiday | living - All about Croatia

As I mentioned in our travel story from Vis, one day of our Holiday was spend on a visit to the Island of Biševo, which is a small island situated 4 nautical miles SW of Komiža.

Our visit to Vis was not only for pleasure, my friend Shane, from Lifejacketadventures, had convinced me to help him bringing his kayaks, from Biševo back to Komiža, where he normally stores them when he is not on a trip – so I actually had to work!!

So Tuesday morning at 7.30 we met in Komiža with Shane, his family, and a Swedish girl - Johanna, who also was going to help with the kayaks. From here we took a fishing boat (taxi boat – 25 kuna) which was loaded with goods, tourist, the skipper and his bodies. The sailing time to the first drop of point at the east site of Biševo was around 40 minutes, as we had to go to a bay on the west site of the island we got an extra 20 minutes sailing trip.

Well arrived at the Island, we went to visit some friend of Shane’s, Lile and Davor who has a small house 50 meters from the beach, Lily and Davor are some very interesting people, they are actually from Zagreb, but spend 6 month’s a every year on the Island, where they among other rent out small cottages and have a environmental project running called “Mali Zeleni I Biševo” (the little green at Biševo) you can read about their project here http://www.bisevo.org

The morning we spend with swimming in the nice bay, where Lili and Davor last year removed around 20 tons of garbage!! At noon we went to next bay Porat to have lunch, as you can see on the picture here, we also had a nice place to swim.

As 3 PM it was time for the hard job, Shane, Johanna and I prepared our selves for the kayak trip back to Komiža, I must say I was bit nervous to back in a kayak again, as the last time was (and also first time) was at Vogalonga 2008, but as we first started paddling I forgot about that.

The first stop on our Kayak trip was Modra Špilja(The blue cave) as you can see the cave does not look like much from the outside, and when you get in there in a 6 meter long kayak without a flashlight it is a bit scary, but very beautiful.

After the blue cava we started our crossing direction Komiža, the weather was very nice so we had no problem with the waves. At about7 PM we reached Komiža I was very tired, but glad that I took the trip, as it is not everyday you get the chance to sit in kayak 20 NM from the mainland.

A few thinks about Biševo

• The Main attraction – Modra Špilja (The blue cave) – can be visit by organized trips (Price 100-140 Kuna) or you can take fisher boat as we did.
• Biševo has some very nice Sand beaches – the fisher boat from Komiža would e.g. take you to Porat in the morning and return in the afternoon around 4 PM.
• Only 7 people live the whole year on Biševo.
• Rainwater is the main water supply on the Island
• The wine from the Island should be great.

The last week in August, we made a last minute decision, to take one week of holiday and go to the Island of Vis, my colleague Vivian’s parents in law had been so kind to lent us there house in the middle of Vis town, so Friday afternoon we left Spilt with the ferry, for our first visit to the Island.

A little bit about the Islands:

Vis the fishermen’s Island is one of the few place on the Adriatic coast where the slogan; of the Croatia tourist board “Mediterranean as it once was” fully comply.

Since WWII, where the island was liberated by Tito’s partisans army and until 1995, the Island was home to a large Army base, as you can see on the photos below, parts of the large scale tunnel system from that time, is still relative intact.

After the reopening of the island, for visitors, the island has year for year been attracting more and more guests, but kept on a level which are not destroying the amazing nature on the island.

The Island has a long Maritime tradition, and fishing was until recently the main industry on the Island, both in the main town Vis and in Komiža on the south west side of the island you still can find several small fisherman’s boats, although meanwhile the sailing boats and yachts who arrive in the afternoon for and overnight stay on the Island, by far has outnumbers them.

Well now back to our trip: well arrived at our accommodation; after 2^1/2 hour on the ferry, we went for a walk at the promenade and had a look at the menu cards on the restaurant along the promenade, eventually we decided to eat at Dionis, which turned out to be good choice.

The next following days we spend enjoying some of the marvelous beaches, and took a round trip on the island which, where we among other visited the Pick of the island Hum, which is still restricted military area.

On Tuesday we went to the island of Biševo, which you can read about here: Kayak from Biševo.

Wednesday we had planned to take a whole day trip with a boat from Komiža, price 220 kn p.p. (kids half price). The boat would first take us to Modra Špilja(The blue cave) on Biševo and then around Vis island, with stops in several bays and a visit to the Zelena Špilja (The green cave) on island Ravnik, the afternoon would be spend with swimming at Stončica beach before returning to Komiža. Unfortunately we all woke up sick from a virus Wednesday morning; so we had to cancel the trip and spend the day recovering.

On Thursday we took a walk a long the Promenade all the way from the ferry harbor to the eastern part of Vis town which is a 25 minutes walk along the water, on the way we visited the Archeological museum Issa, which is situated in the Baterija build by the Austrian / Hungarian empire. The Afternoon we spend at the beach in Milna which together with Stončica beach and Porat Beach on Biševo, was the third excellent beach we tried in a week.

Pictures Beaches in Croatia

Friday morning I had very special experience, our house neighbor; a 70 year old man, took me for an exclusive guided tour in the military tunnels north of Vis town, which was extremely interesting. At noon we left the island with the ferry, and headed back to Split after a really relaxing holiday.

What to see/do on Vis

• Archeological museum in Vis town 
• Tito’s military tunnels and the English fortress
• The peak of the island by Hum which offer magnificent panorama view on Komiža
• Take a round trip on the island, visit wineries and some of the numerous bays, here you for sure can find places where which are not to crowded.
• Rent a bike, in Vis there is at least 5 agencies offering all kind of bikes for adults and kids, the round trip of the Island Is only 28 km, so even though there is some very steep climbs, it is doable.
• Remember to bring fins, diving goggles and snorkel, I guarantee you will like what you see when you put your head under the water.
• And much more ………….

Eating out:

Vis as being the fishermen’s island is one of the top places for fish dishes in Croatia. Both in Vis and especially in Komiža there are some excellent fish restaurant, on the middle of the island, there is several restaurant offering Peka (traditional Croatian dish), with free selection of meet (Octopus, fish, lam, veal), as Peka takes 60-70 minutes to prepare you should order it before arrival. A very nice think is that some of this restaurant offers to pick you up and bring you back after the meal.

Other useful information for a Viš trip:

• Car ferry to island 3 times daily during main season, visit jadrolinijas home page to see schedule also check schedule for Catamaran ferry to Vis.
• If you can avoid bringing car do that, parking in limited and you can rent a car 100 meter from the ferry arrival for around 300 kuna a day.
• Bus to Komiža leaves Vis city just next to where the ferry arrives (In schedule with ferry arrivals).
• Everything is a bit more expensive on Vis maybe 10-20% higher compared to Split, so don’t plan to buy your new clothes collection here, when you any way will end in Split on the way back.
• Try the local wines (Mainly Plavac); they are really good and much cheaper then what you find in the supermarket.
• Vis is for relaxing not for partying so don’t expect to much going on during the night (During July /August nightlife is on beach in Komiža)

Hope this gives you appetime to visit the Island of Vis once in the future

Here you can see all our nice pictures from the Island Vis

Sunday morning at 05:45 we left the camp together with 10 other kayakers and went direction Venice, after a 1 ½ hour drive we arrived in Venice where we easily found the parking spaces (just after the bridge), which Georgia hat recommend us on the info meeting the day before.

At 07.45 we all had offloaded and prepared our kayaks and were ready to go. From the point where we entered the water there was about 30-40 min paddling to the regatta starting point the Piazza Saint Marco.

Shane and I had of course signed up for the regatta, but we did not yet get our starting number, so we had to go to the official information office to pick it up, typical Italian they of course had moved this, so after being directed to several wrong places we finally managed to find it and get our number. Shortly before 09:00 we were gathered with the rest of the group directly in from of the Piazza Saint Marco, waiting for the starting signal.

Precisely at 09:00 a canon shot was fired and 1600 registered and x number of unregistered vessels started moving, Amazing!! All kind of different vessels like Dragon boats, kayaks, rowing boats, Gondola , start paddling and rowing at the same time.

Before the race I had my serious doubts if I would be able to paddle more then am few km, but as It was so interesting to see all the boats and people dressed up for the race, I did not notice how far we were actually going, so when we stopped for a break at a sand pier, I was assuming we had paddled 4-5 km, I turned out that we actually at that point of time already went 12 km, and the island not far in front of us was Burana, the turning point, so I really started believing I could actually finish the race.

In Burana (I nice city with lots of colourful houses) we went down the main Canal in the centre of the city, here there was “supply ships” distributing bananas, water and fanta for the paddlers. Many participants actually stopped here for real lunch in one of the restaurants, or had lunch on the boat, but as I said to Shane “I already manage to get out of the kayak once without falling in the water, so I didn’t feel like wanting to push my luck again”.

After Burano the hardest part of the race came, 6-8 km on open water with few “milestones”, so I had to take several breaks, so Shain had to do the hard work him selves, but eventually we managed to pass this part also and enter into the city Murano (famous for its glass production), from here one the tower on the Marcus church became bigger and bigger which was very good for the motivation.

As we reach the races bottleneck, a small canal in the city part Cannaregio, I was already totally full, so we had to fight our way through as you can see on our Video, but after around 20 minutes we manage to pass the bridge causing the bottleneck and headed on towards Kanal Grande. The last part of the race was easy, all along Kanal Grande and on the bridges there was people encouraging us shouting Forza Forza when we past by, which of course gave plenty of motivation to keep going.

At around 14:00 we passed the finish line in front of the Piazza Saint Marco and got our medal and diploma, after crossing we paddle back to where our cars was parked, so at 14:45 after 7 hours in a Kayak we finally had solid ground under our feet again. Of course I had pain especially in my arms, but the feeling have actually manage the 30 km was every pain worth, so for sure would recommend also newbie’s like me to try something like this, I definitely will do it again.

Our fotos from Vogalonga

Here is some usefull links for Vogalonga and for kayak holiday in general

The camp which we stayed in - Capalonga

The organizer of the Bibione kayak week - Bibionekayak

Kayak holiday in Croatia - lifejacketadventures

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As I told in prior post, my friend Shain and I had signed up for the 34^th Vogalonga which was held on the Sunday the 11^th of May in Venice Italy.

Friday we left Split and headed to the Camp Capalonga in Bibione, which is 100 km north of Venice, as we had a few work related thinks to handle on the way so we did not arrive before 23:30, so it was good that Julie a few hours before had announce our late arrival, otherwise they would not have let us in as the camp, as it is closed for vehicles from 23:00 to 07:00. The trip from Spilt had taken us 10 hours, so everybody was ready for the beds.

On the Camp Capalonga, we had rented two “Golden Suite Mare” , which we had booked through Bibionekajak at a special rate of 65 Euro, which to me seam ok for the luxury mobile homes, with 6 beds, 2 bathrooms and fully equipped kitchen.

Saturday morning Shane and I went to pick the two new double kayaks he had ordered by an Italian dealer in the area, this took much longer as we expected as we had a hard time finding the town where the dealer was situation, but finally we managed.

As we came back to the camp, I went in to the pool with the kids (which already spend most of the day there), Shane went to talk with the arranger of the bibionekajak 2008 – Gergio. At 17:00 all we went to information meeting regarding Sundays race in Venice, after we finished the meeting, we prepared the new kayak and finally, at 18:30 if was time for my virgin trip in a kayak, which was only a trip of 30 minutes, but enough for me to get serious doubts if I would be able to do the 30 Km on Sunday.

We finished the day with a very important task, Barbecue on the Terrace while we where mentally preparing us for the race by having a few glasses of wine.